The surface of lathe and plaster walls may crack as a bracket is tightened down and the lathes are compressed. Once the position of the first timber has been established, measure 405mm (16 inches) along the line and drill another hole to confirm the location of the next timber - if this hole does not locate the next timber, drill another horizontal series of small holes from this hole until a timber is located.
One method to locate the timbers is to draw a horizontal line at the position for the shelf and then drill a series of small holes along the line about 25mm (1 inch) apart until the timber is found. The vertical timbers are usually spaced at equal distances apart - on older stud partitions they are normally about 405mm (16 inches) apart, while more modern stud walls have them spaced at about 600mm (24 inches).įinding the position of the vertical timbers is not always easy, with plasterboard walls, try tapping lightly on the wall while moving sideways - at the position of the timber it should sound solid rather than the hollow sound resulting from the space between the timbers.įinding the position of the vertical timbers behind lathe and plaster is more of a problem as there is no significant difference in the sound of a surface tap. A strong fixings will only be obtained where brackets are directly screwed to the vertical timber framework. Stud partitions (both lathe and plaster and plasterboard).įixing for shelves should not be fixed just to plasterboard (or lathe and plaster). With this type of block, use the special wall plugs and drill the blocks carefully to avoid making overlarge holes. Modern lower density, high insulation blocks are extremely soft and won't take ordinary wall plugs. One method to overcome this is to first fix a vertical batten to the wall using screws and plugs, and then fix the brackets to the batten using shorter screws. Some true concrete blocks and older bricks may contain hard pieces of flint and hard stones, these can cause a drill bit to off line - this often results in the holes not lining up with those in the brackets. Try to position the plugs into the actual brick/block. The plugs and screws need to be long enough to pass through the plaster into the masonry - plaster alone does not provide enough strength to hold these types of fixings.Īlso take care to avoid mortar joints between the masonry as these can be weak points especially where the mortar is lime based (generally in older properties. Making strong fixings on to most plastered masonry walls is normally fairly straight forward using screws with appropriate wall plugs - wall bolts should be used to fix the brackets for extremely heavy loads. The type of construction will influence the method used to obtain strong fixings for brackets each type of construction is covered separately below - plastered masonry, stud partitions, plasterboard dry lined on to masonry.
Probably the easiest of all methods.Various types of construction of internal walls will be found in different properties plastered masonry, stud partitions (lathe and plaster or plasterboard), plasterboard dry lined onto masonry - (our page " types of internal wall" explains these in more detail). The other way is to flat frame against wall and then drywall and install like a normal cabinet install. Remember that lath is held on most of the time only by small nails just to hold the concrete in place until the wall cures together. If it is just plaster wall, you still need to hit a stud, as the lath and concrete are not strong enough to hold weight of full cabinets in most cases. Exposed ends need to have wall scribe on them or end panel to cover up 2x material. The key we have found is to anchor 2 x material with lags, anchors and washers into plaster walls backed with brick and then install cabinet on top. We install cabinets in old houses in Washington, DC. I would try concrete deck screws to attach. You don't say how thick the material is, but I'm assuming it's less than 1 1/2 inches. I always find a inconspicuous place, then drill 1/8 holes. First off, plaster in an old home is always going to crack, spider, peel, period. I have the same problem here at my testbed (home). (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Plaster usually breaks apart when drilling. The party wall is cinderblock and then scratch coat and plaster to finish. What do you use/do when you hang wall cabs on plaster wall? Most of the old homes where I am at have this.